Ten Seats, One Seating: Getting Into the Chef's Counter
The hardest table in the capital is ten stools around a kitchen pass. Here's how the release works, when to book, what the $195 buys, and why the pairing is worth it once.
The 30-Day Release
Seats release thirty days out at noon, and weekend allocations typically go within the hour — residents get first call before public release. The wait-list moves more than people expect: cancellations in the final 72 hours free a surprising number of stools.
What the Arc Looks Like
Seven courses composed as a single argument — raw to fire to sweet — plated ten centimetres from your glass. The menu rewrites every Tuesday around what the farms and the smokehouse produced; nothing survives the weekend intact, which is the point.
Two and a half hours, one seating at 18:30. Phones photograph freely; the kitchen considers it a compliment. What they ask is presence — the counter is dinner as theatre, and the theatre rewards attention.
The Pairing Question
The $110 pairing pours bottles most restaurants can't justify by the glass — Coravin lets the sommelier open a Jura oddity for two pours. Worth it once in your life; optional forever after. The non-alcoholic pairing, built on ferments and teas, is genuinely considered rather than a concession.
Etiquette at the Pass
Ask questions — the chefs plate facing you deliberately. Flag allergies at booking, not arrival. And arrive hungry: the bread course is a trap everyone happily falls into.
A tasting menu is an argument made in courses — the counter just lets you watch the chef make it.
Chef Mara Ellison


The Takeaways
- Seats release at noon, 30 days out
- Residents get first allocation — book with the room
- Wait-list moves inside the final 72 hours
- Allergies at booking, never at arrival

Written by
Priya Sharma
Priya covers the restaurant program — every menu rewrite, every pairing argument, most of the calories.
Asked After Reading
One Email a Month, Worth Opening
New journal entries, rate calendar openings and the occasional unlisted dinner — no noise.